![]() ![]() ![]() Groove scribe offline pdf#Once a manuscript is composed in Scribe styles, the WFDW can be used to produce a print-ready PDF or an IDTT file that will automatically flow into InDesign. Automatically Create PDF or InDesign Files Groove scribe offline archive#Control Your Contentīy keeping conversions in-house, you maintain control, cut costs, speed production time, and maintain an archive of your publications. Whether for print, electronic, or round-tripping changes for new editions, a single tool-Scribe’s Digital Hub-is used for all conversions, no matter the order. The result is a seamless, highly efficient, production process. Sometimes, a crowbar is handy for breaking out the wood after making the cuts.The WFDW simplifies the transition from one publishing stage to another as well as automates many of the tasks performed by editors and typesetters. When the two sections of wood are removed, you will be left with a raised section right down the center. You are trying to cut a long triangular shaped piece of wood out of the log. When these cuts are completed, cut from the center with the saw angled towards the outer line. ![]() Then I make two deeper cuts (using the 3/4" cuts as guides stand on the side of the log that lets you cut with the gas cap pointing up) with saw angled in toward the center of scribed area. These cuts guide the saw for subsequent cuts. The saw is pretty much straight up and down (maybe pointed toward the center just a bit). I make two cuts just inside the scribe lines (about 3/4" deep) as close to the scribe line as possible. I 've never tried the short bar, but I will one day. I have heard of guys that cut grooves with a 65 cc saw and 14" bar. If you plan to cut a lot of grooves a 65 cc saw works pretty good. When I run into knots and tough spots, I clean these up with an axe. You have to use very good eye protection (like goggles) to see the line while your sanding because this operation will throw sawdust near your face. As you practice with a chainsaw, you will find that you can get very close to the scribe line and very little clean up is needed.Īt one time I used an axe and handle-bar gouge to clean up to the line, then someone showed me the disc sander. However, when your log is complete, you should be able to see the scibe line along the entire length of the log (there should be no wood visible inside the line). ![]() Cut close with the saw, remove the wood, and clean up to the line. Finally, I use a disc sander so I can sand to the scribe line.įor the log to fit correctly, leave the line. Next, I clean up the groove area with an axe, a curved adze, and a handle-bar gouge. I use a chainsaw to cut the groove (W cut or V cut depending on the size of the groove). This would leave me with a relatively shallow cove, typically no more than 1" space between the logs. Any remaining hangups would be brushed down with the chainsaw. I would then check with a cookie about the same diameter as the log I was fitting to. Passes 5 and 6 would take care of the ridge in the center left by 3 & 4. Take care not to cut the scribe line nearest to you. Passes 3 and 4 would cut to the tracer cut on the opposite side while holding the bar as close to horizontal as possible. Passes 1 and 2 were tracer cuts just inside the scribe line about 3/4" deep using the tip of the bar pointed almost directly to the center of the log. Probably not the quickest way but it seemed to use the least effort: This way I could always keep the scribe line in sight.Īs for the lateral, I used a "six pass" method with the chainsaw (I think I've heard this called the "W cut" or something of that nature). Sanding disc would be facing me and I would walk backwards along the log. I agree with the angle grinder - very quick! I did it by holding the grinder with the handle up and in my right hand. ![]()
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